cover of episode 年味指南 | 石老板:年味是一家人围在一起,擀皮的擀皮,炸的炸

年味指南 | 石老板:年味是一家人围在一起,擀皮的擀皮,炸的炸

2025/1/13
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厨此以外

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石老板
创立并领导单立人喜剧,推动中国脱口秀行业发展的先驱。
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我从小在兰州长大,对兰州的年味有着深刻的记忆。年味不仅仅是家人围坐一起包饺子、炸油果子的热闹场景,更是那些特定菜肴的味道,比如糟肉、夹沙等。虽然这些菜在其他地方也可能吃到,但少了些许家乡的味道。 糟肉是我们家过年必吃的菜,虽然网上搜到很多地方都有,但对我来说,只有过年才能吃到,这是一种特殊的仪式感。 夹沙也是我非常喜欢的年夜饭菜肴,它在不同地方的做法和形状都不一样,但都承载着美好的回忆。 我们家过年还会做很多油炸食品,如油香、油果子、焦叶等,这些食物香脆可口,即使跨越过年很长时间,我依然百吃不厌。 此外,我们家过年还会做很多凉拌菜,调味汁都是一样的,这种味道很难在外面找到,是记忆中的味道。 猪肉蛋卷罐头是我对过年最早的味觉记忆,小时候觉得很珍贵,长大后发现味道不如小时候好。 我们家过年还会收到单位发的整只羊,需要处理并分给亲戚朋友,炖羊肉的味道主要是香料味,而不是羊肉本身的味道。新鲜的羊腰也是过年才能吃到的美味。 过年期间,我们会收到亲戚朋友送来的各种食物,需要及时处理和分送,这是一种独特的年味体验。 回族亲戚过年招待客人,会准备很多菜,包括九宫格小菜和一大盘大盘鸡等,这是一种隆重的待客方式。 我对于家乡食物的怀念,更多的是对牛肉面、土豆片、烤羊肉串等传统食物的怀念,而不是对肯德基麦当劳等快餐的怀念。 兰州的羊肉串和其他羊肉菜肴,口味偏原味,对香料的使用也很讲究。天水麻辣烫的流行,是政府文旅引导和网红打卡的结果,其本质是四川麻辣烫。最近兰州最流行的是辣子羊肉串,用大量的干辣椒面,但并不辣,很香。我对现炸辣椒油不太理解。 在北京,我对兰州食物的念想没有那么强烈,因为可以自己做,也可以在外面找到替代品,而且家乡餐馆的味道也变了。 北京兰州牛肉面的发展经历了几个阶段,从东方宫时期的高峰到现在的低谷,原因是市场竞争激烈,导致很多店使用预制菜和料理包,影响了味道。兰州牛肉面在全国的流行,曾被青海化隆人垄断,这与河西走廊的地理位置和文化交流有关。兰州美食在对外传播中会有一些折损,与陕西美食容易混淆。兰州的一些食物,例如“搓鱼”,在其他地区也有,只是做法略有不同。兰州美食缺乏独特的美食名片。 我这两年特别有这个瘾就是朋友想吃什么喜欢吃什么我就会尝试着去复刻一下但是我就会想知道我做的跟他以前吃的会有什么差异因为就比如你说像辣椒炒肉锅包肉什么他总有每家会有那些细微的一个变化我就觉得这种特别代表每一家的那个饮食的偏好就也许有一天我可能会做一个这样比较大的一个功课搜集一些这种你就像这个万圣节那天的莫妮卡一样每个人对土豆都有不同的做法做了三锅有没有人问我我喜欢怎么做搜集三天就崩溃了我说了算吧牛肉面不要加蒜泥

Deep Dive

Key Insights

What is the significance of the 'Nian Wei' (年味) or 'New Year flavor' according to Shi Laoban?

Shi Laoban describes 'Nian Wei' as a scene where the whole family gathers together, with some rolling dough for dumplings and others frying food. It’s also about specific dishes that evoke childhood memories, even if they can be replicated elsewhere. The subtle differences, like the amount of vinegar or the aroma of chili oil, create a nostalgic distance between the present and the past.

What are some traditional New Year foods in Lanzhou, as mentioned by Shi Laoban?

In Lanzhou, traditional New Year foods include 'Zao Rou' (braised pork with fermented tofu), 'Jia Sha' (a dish with meat filling sandwiched between egg skins), and various fried snacks like 'You Guo Zi' (fried dough twists) and 'Jiao Ye' (crispy fried dough). These foods are deeply tied to family traditions and are often prepared in large quantities to last through the holiday.

Why does Shi Laoban feel that the taste of Lanzhou beef noodles in Beijing is not authentic?

Shi Laoban explains that authentic Lanzhou beef noodles rely on a rich broth made from a large quantity of beef and chicken, which requires high foot traffic to sustain. In Beijing, the demand for beef noodles is lower, leading to diluted broth and the use of pre-made ingredients, which compromises the authentic flavor. Additionally, the business model in Beijing often includes selling rice dishes, further detracting from the focus on the noodles.

What is the cultural significance of the dish 'Jia Sha' in Lanzhou?

Jia Sha is a dish made with meat filling sandwiched between egg skins, often fried and served with sweet and sour or spicy sauces. Shi Laoban humorously speculates that its name might originate from a folk tale about a soldier who ate meat that had fallen on the ground, earning a promotion. The dish is a nostalgic part of Lanzhou's New Year celebrations and is cherished for its unique texture and flavor.

How does Shi Laoban describe the evolution of Lanzhou beef noodles in Beijing?

Shi Laoban notes that Lanzhou beef noodles in Beijing have gone through phases, with a period around ten years ago when they were more authentic due to the influence of the 'Dongfang Gong' brand. However, over time, the quality declined as the focus shifted to fast-food models, leading to the use of pre-made ingredients and a loss of the traditional flavor. Today, he believes it’s hard to find authentic Lanzhou beef noodles in Beijing.

What role do spices play in Lanzhou cuisine, according to Shi Laoban?

Spices are a crucial part of Lanzhou cuisine, with dishes like beef noodles and lamb skewers heavily relying on spices like chili, cumin, and Sichuan pepper. Shi Laoban explains that historically, spices were expensive and their use signified wealth and status. In Lanzhou, the heavy use of spices is a cultural hallmark, distinguishing its cuisine from other regions.

Chapters
This chapter explores the nostalgic food memories of individuals from different regions of China during the Chinese New Year. It highlights the unique dishes and family traditions associated with this time, emphasizing the variations and similarities across different cultures.
  • Nostalgic food memories from various regions of China
  • Variations and similarities in New Year dishes
  • Unique family traditions associated with food

Shownotes Transcript

在录制这几期**《过年特辑》**之前,我已经很久都没对过年有太多好奇或者期待了,年复一年,每年不都差不多嘛。但和朋友们聊过年又不一样,在听到对方对食物的描述之后,惊讶地发现明明相隔万里,却有着相似的经历,甚至连年夜饭餐桌上的菜式都有很多一样的。

这种感觉很奇妙,明明​是这几年才认识的朋友,原来我们在很小的时候就曾以某种形式交错过。聊完之后不止感觉和朋友们更亲近了,年也有了更广阔的意味,它不止是自己家的年,​而是真正的情感纽带。

我也忍不住重新思考什么是「新年」,不止是日历翻过一页,年龄长了一岁,也有我们对旧物、旧人、旧事的新观点和新想法。站在此时此地回望记忆中的年味食物和团聚画面,以新叠旧,确实是一年比一年更丰富了。

特别感谢「南食召」对过年特辑的支持!已经12岁的南食召,也像是一个离开家乡闯荡的年轻人。从浙江温州的鱼饼、鸭舌出发,现在也尽力呈现其他地方的特色风味,云南山珍、东南沿海的海货、广式和川式的腊味,产品越来越丰富。

南食召主营的是家庭常备的各种食材和调料,坚持本真、本味、少添加的风格。在尝试过很多餐厅和外卖之后,想经常回家吃的,就是这种让自己更舒服的味道。

【时间轴】

1:43 在相距很远的地方,吃很像的年夜饭大菜

8:12 从小就吃不腻的油炸食品和凉拌菜

15:30 离家之后试图寻找的儿时味道记忆

26:05 过年忙着接收食物,处理食物和转赠食物

33:30 在哪一刻觉得很难找回家乡的味道

43:05 哪一刻又更明确了自己喜欢的家乡味道

【本期鸣谢嘉宾】

石老板:兰州人,单立人喜剧创始人

【本期配乐】

Pedrini- Concert baroque à la Cité Interdite Sonata No. 5 in G Major- III. Vivace

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**「厨此以外」是我在写了很多菜谱之后决定再往前踏出的一步,希望可以从菜场、从餐厅、从书里、从种种地方都能了解食物更多一些。烹饪并不是食物的终点,「和食物做朋友」**才是想重新构建生活时必不可少的一环。

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