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You're listening to State of the World from NPR. We bring you the day's most vital international stories up close where they're happening. It's Monday, April 7th. I'm Greg Dixon. What's it like to see your city descend into war and then come out again?
That's been the experience of residents of Sudan's capital, Khartoum, like Dua Tariq. She saw Khartoum turn into a war zone when two former allies began fighting. Then came an occupation by a paramilitary group. And then, in the last few weeks, liberation of the city by the Sudanese army. Throughout that time, she's been sending audio messages to NPR's Emmanuel Akinwotu. He brings us this picture of what it's like to live through such massive shifts.
This was Duweterok's life in the initial weeks of the war. In the day, she sheltered at home from airstrikes and artillery guns. But when fighting subsided at night, she and a group of activists went out into the streets.
They'd sing hopeful songs to other residents trapped inside from the fighting exploding across Khartoum. But then it got too dangerous and the song stopped. Actually, my neighborhood also is getting attacked and bombed. Three people were killed within the past 40 minutes in my neighborhood. It's very scary.
Throughout the war, she sent voice notes to NPR from her home, where she was sheltering with her family, including her newborn son. Fighting broke out between the Rapid Support Forces paramilitary group and their former ally, the Sudanese army, nearly two years ago. Both sides had launched a coup in 2021 against the first civilian-led government in decades. But then they went to war with each other for control of the country. The bullets are so loud and the fear on the children's eyes is so intense.
just so frustrating because all we can do is to support and provide hugs but also us we need to be hugged but right now most of the people I know have left Khartoum seeking shelter and safety. Most of the people I know here are planning to leave the city. The RSF took over Khartoum and carried out unprecedented atrocities looting the city of virtually everything valuable and carrying out mass killings, sexual violence and torture. It's shocking, it's traumatizing, it's
life-changing, it's a completely tough experience. But the turning point came last month. The Sudanese army recaptured the capital for the first time after gradually advancing across the Khartoum state region. As soldiers celebrated, groups of civilians who'd endured the worst gradually poured out into eerie streets.
And civilians like Dua Tarek left their homes without fear for the first time. I went to the main road and celebrated with the people. Much of Khartoum is unrecognizable. Sways of it torched, destroyed and looted. But the recapture by the army has given many residents like Tarek a new sense of freedom.
I did simple things, simple things, but it felt so important and felt so different. It felt so fun. Actually, I had fun. And the chance to do ordinary things she missed. I rode a bicycle and I went grocery shopping without hiding the money in my chest.
I was laughing in the streets. I played music. I played music before I was hiding my speakers. The war is still being fought across Sudan and the toll has been immense. Up to 150,000 people have been killed and more than 15 million people have been displaced.
Hundreds of thousands are suffering famine and a genocide in the western region of Darfur has been committed by the RSF and allied Arab militias against African ethnic groups, according to the UN. We lost so many people, family members, loved ones, friends, neighbours. State services have collapsed and there is still fear amid widespread reports that the army and allied forces have been killing people suspected of being linked to the RSF.
But despite all of this, people remain determined to rebuild their lives and to live with dignity. It's completely destroyed, but the people are festive. There's a lot of people in the streets now. The city smells like we're smelling perfumes. People are wearing perfumes now, wearing very nice clothes. And the music is coming from everywhere, the chants, the celebrations. And don't forget, even when it gets dark and ugly, we're here around you, holding you down.
Emmanuel Akimotu, NPR News. That's the state of the world from NPR. Thanks for listening.
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