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家伟: 花香调是香水领域中最庞大和重要的家族，其复杂性源于构成它的多种类型。首先，存在可以直接从自然界提取精油的花朵，如玫瑰和茉莉，这些是早期香水常用的原料。其次，有些花朵，如铃兰和山茶花，虽然气味广受欢迎，但难以获得天然精油，因此通过合成分子在香水中重现。最后，还有一些本身没有气味的花朵，调香师通过艺术手法赋予它们独特的香气，例如鱼美人和樱花。因此，花香调的香水世界既有天然的馈赠，也有人工的创造，共同构成了其繁复多样的特点。
家伟: 在花香调的分类上，我个人倾向于将其分为两大类：白花和其他花。白花因其独特的香气风格，几乎可以被视为一个独立的香水分类。白花的特点在于其动物质感和新香感，这主要通过如吲哚和甲酚等成分来实现。吲哚在低浓度下能赋予花朵灵魂，使其更加立体和真实。而水杨酸盐类化合物则能使白花在香水中真正绽放。总的来说，白花不仅仅是颜色上的定义，更在于其独特的香气构成和带来的感官体验。
Deep Dive
The floral family in perfume is incredibly diverse due to the many ways flowers are used in fragrance creation. These include using naturally extracted essential oils, employing synthetic molecules to replicate scents of flowers with unavailable oils, and even creating scents for flowers that have no natural aroma. The definition of "essential oil" is also explored, highlighting the potential for mislabeling and the higher cost of truly natural oils.
- Over 2/3 of perfumes are related to floral fragrances.
- Early perfumes relied on readily available natural flower extracts like rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang.
- Synthetic molecules allowed the recreation of scents like Lily of the Valley, expanding the floral family.
- Some floral scents are created for flowers lacking a natural aroma, such as cherry blossoms.
Shownotes Transcript