Roy Choi had a four-year gambling addiction, starting with games like Pan 9 and moving to high-stakes poker. He described the addiction as a constant need to 'get even,' where he would wake up every day promising himself he would quit once he broke even. The addiction led him to burn bridges and lose significant amounts of money, but he eventually overcame it after an out-of-body experience watching Emeril Lagasse on TV, which inspired him to pursue cooking.
Roy Choi's family, like many Korean immigrants, relied on community networks to start businesses. They owned a liquor store, a restaurant, and a dry cleaning business, eventually moving into jewelry. The Korean community in LA, particularly in areas like Alhambra, supported each other with loans and resources, as they faced systemic racism and limited opportunities. Choi emphasized that Asian immigrants often had to 'eat a lot of shit' and endure discrimination while building their lives in America.
Food is central to Korean culture, serving as a means of connection and survival. Choi described how his extended family would gather every weekend for potlucks, cooking elaborate meals like stews, broths, and dumplings. For immigrants, food became a way to preserve their identity and cope with the hardships of adapting to a new country. Choi also highlighted how Korean street food is both affordable and nutritious, contrasting it with the fast-food culture in America.
The pandemic devastated the restaurant industry, with 30-40% of small businesses closing permanently. Roy Choi explained that the flawed restaurant model, which relies on constant activity to stay afloat, was exposed when everything came to a halt. Many restaurants couldn't survive without steady income, leading to a surge in street food and pop-up concepts like the Avenue 26 Night Market in LA.
Roy Choi advocates for systemic changes in the food industry, including fair wages, healthcare, and better working conditions for restaurant workers. He criticized the tipping system, which disproportionately benefits servers while leaving cooks and other staff underpaid. Choi also called for higher food prices to reflect the true cost of quality ingredients and labor, emphasizing that consumers need to value food more to sustain the industry.
Roy Choi argues that Asian Americans are often stereotyped or ignored in Hollywood, with few stories showcasing their diversity. He pointed out that Asian characters are rarely portrayed as complex individuals with flaws, addictions, or sexual struggles. This lack of representation perpetuates outdated and narrow views of Asian identity, trapping it in a 'trauma' of outdated stereotypes.
Roy Choi's inspiration to become a chef came during a low point in his life, while he was struggling with gambling addiction. He had an out-of-body experience watching Emeril Lagasse on the Food Network, which motivated him to enroll in culinary school. This marked a turning point in his life, leading him to pursue cooking and eventually create the iconic Kogi food truck.
The Kogi food truck revolutionized food culture in LA by introducing Korean-Mexican fusion cuisine. It became a cultural phenomenon, drawing thousands of people to its locations and creating a sense of community. Choi described the truck as a 'graffiti artist' of food, leaving a mark without needing to be seen. The truck's success also highlighted the potential for street food to challenge traditional restaurant models.
Small restaurants operate on razor-thin margins, with 30% of costs going to food, 20-30% to labor, and another 20-25% to fixed costs like rent and utilities. This leaves only about 5% profit, making it difficult to sustain operations. Additionally, many small restaurants lack access to loans or investors, forcing them to rely on personal savings and live paycheck to paycheck.
'Broken Bread' explores the intersection of food, culture, and social issues, using food as a lens to address topics like food sovereignty, racial inequality, and economic disparities. The show aims to highlight the stories of marginalized communities and advocate for systemic change in the food industry. Choi uses the platform to promote healing and connection through food.
On today's episode, we revisit Roy Choi's episode from March 10th, 2022. Roy Choi (Broken Bread, The Chef Show, Kogi) is a chef, author, and television personality. Roy joins the Armchair Expert to discuss how he went from having a gambling addiction to being an award-winning chef, what Asian immigrants had to do to navigate the American system, and how important food is to Korean culture. Roy and Dax talk about what happened to restaurants during the pandemic, how most people in America are a product of fast food advertising, and what reforms he would like to see in the food industry. Roy explains what his experience was like teaching English in Korea, that he has never been a collector of material things, and that he believes there isn’t enough Asian representation in American media.
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