Red lipstick symbolized feminine power, combining rebellion with fashion. It was a distinctly female item, unlike other power symbols like blazers or briefcases, which were traditionally male. Elizabeth Arden capitalized on this by distributing red lipstick to suffragette marchers, making it a uniform of the movement and a statement of female strength.
During World War II, red lipstick became a symbol of empowerment for women entering the workforce in roles traditionally held by men. It was a way for women to maintain their identity and morale. Winston Churchill recognized its importance and chose not to ration it, understanding its psychological impact. Additionally, wearing red lipstick was seen as a subtle act of defiance against Hitler, who despised it.
The earliest forms of red lipstick date back to around 3500 BC in the Middle East, where people used red ochre to redden their lips. In ancient Egypt, Cleopatra used crushed beets to create a crimson red. Modern lipstick, as we know it, emerged in the late 1800s, with Guerlain creating the first modern lipstick in 1884. The bullet-shaped tube was invented in the early 1900s, inspired by World War I bullets.
Hitler associated red lipstick with defiance and female empowerment, which contradicted the Nazi ideal of women as domestic figures focused on raising children. Red lipstick symbolized independence and rebellion, making it a subtle but powerful statement against the Nazi regime.
Marilyn Monroe popularized red lipstick by making it a key part of her iconic look, which communicated sexuality and glamour. She often used a glossy red lip, which added a moist, sensual quality. Monroe also layered multiple shades of red to accentuate her lips, creating a signature style that became synonymous with her image.
Red lipstick remains a symbol of confidence, power, and individuality. It is embraced by diverse groups, including men and younger generations, as a statement of boldness and freedom. Despite some conservative pushback, red lipstick continues to be a powerful tool for self-expression and defiance, maintaining its edgy and rebellious reputation.
Rachel Felder suggests starting with a red-tinted lip balm, lip stain, or gloss to ease into wearing red lipstick. She recommends experimenting with different shades and textures, particularly starting with a blue-red, which suits most complexions. Trying affordable drugstore options allows for exploration without a significant investment.
Red lipstick has a unique feminine power to it.
It's been on the lips of some of the most influential people in history, including Cleopatra and Elizabeth I, and really took off in the 20th century.
Why did it take on such an iconic status with the Suffragette movement? Why did Churchill choose not to ration lipstick? And why did Hitler hate it?
Joining Kate today is journalist and red lipstick aficionado, Rachel Felder, author of Red Lipstick: An Ode To A Beauty Icon), to help us unpack the power of this make-up essential.
This podcast was edited by Tom Delargy and produced by Stuart Beckwith. The senior producer was Charlotte Long.
All music from Epidemic Sounds
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