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cover of episode S02.9: NOMA 霸气回归,等了三年,终于能聊吃后感了!

S02.9: NOMA 霸气回归,等了三年,终于能聊吃后感了!

2019/7/3
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味之道

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M
Mario
喜妙雅
蒋旭
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喜妙雅:我认为NOMA的成功在于它将各种元素整合到一起,而非单一元素的创新。它在摆盘审美、发酵技术和对生物多样性的重视等方面都做出了贡献,但并非第一个在这些方面有所尝试的。NOMA的成功也与其地理位置和当地饮食文化有关,在北欧更容易被接受。 此外,NOMA的成功代表着餐饮行业的一个转向和引领,它促使人们反思现代烹饪的方向,从追求极致的分子料理到回归食材本身。 最后,NOMA的成功也体现在其完整性上,从装潢到服务都贯彻始终,给食客带来一种独特的体验。 Mario:我在 Noma 东京姊妹店 INUA 负责研发(R&D),专注于菜品开发和新食材寻找,并搭建餐厅数据库。INUA 的数据库包含所有与菜品呈现相关的内容,从食材产地到物理化学特性,以及处理方法等。INUA 更关注食材的生存状态和环境,例如雨水对琵琶的影响。INUA 在日本做的,是 NOMA 最初在北欧做的事情的重复。 NOMA 的美味程度取决于目标受众,其口味更偏向于全球食客。NOMA 的菜品中,新鲜食材占很大比例,并非全部是发酵食材。NOMA 的成功在于其理念的完整性,从装潢到服务都贯彻始终。 蒋旭:我对 NOMA 进行了书面研究,包括菜谱、发酵实验室出版物和演讲等。NOMA 对西方高级餐厅的摆盘审美产生了重大影响,从对称到不对称的转变。NOMA 推动了现代社会对发酵的研究,并影响了人们对生物多样性的认识。 NOMA 的成功与其地理位置和当地传统有关,在北欧更容易被接受。在拥有深厚饮食传统的国家,餐饮创新非常困难。NOMA 的成功也与其所在地区的饮食文化相对薄弱有关,更容易接受新的菜式。北欧国家对外来饮食的开放度高,这也有助于 NOMA 的成功。 NOMA 代表着餐饮行业对现代烹饪方向的反思,从追求极致的分子料理到回归食材本身。NOMA 继承了 El Bulli 的一些理念,但也有意识地偏离了其主旨。El Bulli 改变了人们的思考方式,NOMA 也采用了类似的创意模式。NOMA 是第一个在媒体上强调员工重要性,并重视员工餐的餐厅。NOMA 是第一个提出可持续发展理念的餐厅,即使自己没有完全做到。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

What is the primary focus of Mario's work at INUA, NOMA's sister restaurant in Tokyo?

Mario's work at INUA focuses on Research and Development (R&D), which involves creating new dishes, sourcing unique ingredients, and building a comprehensive knowledge system for the restaurant. She is also developing a proprietary database that includes details on ingredients, recipes, and the creative process, which serves as an educational resource for the team.

How does NOMA's approach to ingredient sourcing differ from other high-end restaurants?

NOMA places a strong emphasis on the origin and natural state of ingredients, particularly wild and seasonal produce. They focus on how ingredients are harvested, their environmental conditions, and how they are best preserved to maintain their flavor. This approach is deeply rooted in the restaurant's philosophy of sustainability and biodiversity.

What impact has NOMA had on the global culinary scene, particularly in terms of fermentation?

NOMA has significantly influenced the global culinary scene by popularizing the use of fermentation. Due to Denmark's long winters and limited fresh produce, NOMA pioneered the use of fermentation as a method to preserve and enhance flavors. This has led to increased scientific interest and research into the health benefits and flavor complexities of fermented foods.

How has NOMA's plating style influenced modern Western cuisine?

NOMA revolutionized plating in Western cuisine by introducing asymmetrical and naturalistic presentations, moving away from the traditional geometric and symmetrical styles of French Nouvelle Cuisine. This shift has influenced many contemporary chefs and restaurants, encouraging a more organic and less structured approach to food presentation.

What role does biodiversity play in NOMA's culinary philosophy?

Biodiversity is central to NOMA's culinary philosophy. The restaurant emphasizes the importance of using a wide variety of wild and lesser-known ingredients to promote ecological balance and preserve rare species. By incorporating these ingredients into their dishes, NOMA supports sustainable farming practices and encourages the conservation of diverse ecosystems.

How does NOMA's approach to sustainability extend beyond its menu?

NOMA's sustainability efforts go beyond its menu by focusing on reducing food waste, using locally sourced ingredients, and promoting eco-friendly practices in its operations. The restaurant also emphasizes the well-being of its staff, providing high-quality meals for employees and fostering a respectful and supportive work environment.

What makes NOMA's dining experience unique compared to other high-end restaurants?

NOMA's dining experience is unique due to its holistic approach, which includes exceptional service, a welcoming atmosphere, and a deep connection to nature. The restaurant's open kitchen allows guests to interact with the chefs, creating a sense of community and transparency. Additionally, NOMA's commitment to using fresh, locally sourced ingredients and innovative culinary techniques enhances the overall dining experience.

How has NOMA influenced the way modern chefs think about food and its cultural context?

NOMA has inspired modern chefs to think more deeply about the cultural and environmental context of their ingredients. The restaurant encourages chefs to explore the connections between food, nature, and culture, leading to more thoughtful and sustainable culinary practices. This approach has influenced a new generation of chefs to prioritize biodiversity, fermentation, and the ethical sourcing of ingredients.

Chapters
本期节目讨论了 NOMA 餐厅的成功,嘉宾们探讨了其成功是否源于运气或实力,并分析了 NOMA 对现代西餐的贡献。
  • NOMA 餐厅在全球 50 佳餐厅榜单上霸榜多年,嘉宾对其持续成功的原因进行探讨。
  • 嘉宾们分析了 NOMA 在摆盘、发酵技术和生物多样性等方面的贡献。
  • 嘉宾们就 NOMA 餐厅菜品是否好吃展开讨论,并计划在后续环节解答这一问题。

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