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cover of episode S03.2: 国庆长假,长沙之外,这座湖南小城藏着更诱人的湘菜

S03.2: 国庆长假,长沙之外,这座湖南小城藏着更诱人的湘菜

2023/9/25
logo of podcast 味之道

味之道

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C
Chino
席妙雅
蒋询
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席妙雅:在湖南株洲的野马土菜研究所,我体验了独特的湘菜风味。这家餐厅食材新鲜,摆放讲究,菜品会根据季节变化而调整,每次用餐都是独特的体验。我最印象深刻的是生爆肥肠,肥肠处理干净,口感脆嫩,辣椒的搭配也十分巧妙;天花板甲鱼汤汁浓郁鲜美,是下饭神器;干辣椒炒浅熏腊肉香气独特,辣度适中,也是米饭杀手。 此外,我还了解到韩菌汤的独特烹饪方法和韩菌的一些知识和历史故事,以及野马哥对食材和烹饪技法的用心。 总的来说,这家餐厅的菜品都非常注重食材的新鲜和烹饪技法的精湛,让我感受到了湘菜的独特魅力。 蒋询:我选择去株洲吃土菜,是因为一线城市餐厅同质化严重,而小城市在食材和餐饮业态上更有吸引力,并且“土菜研究所”这个名字让我对这家餐厅充满期待。在野马土菜研究所,我体验到了湖南小炒的精髓,特别是生爆肥肠和韩菌汤,让我印象深刻。 此外,我还了解到野马哥对食材的严格要求和对烹饪技法的精益求精,以及他对于餐厅经营的独特理念。 总的来说,这次株洲之行让我对湘菜有了更深入的了解,也让我感受到了小城市餐饮业的活力和魅力。 Chino:我之前对湖南菜的印象模糊,这次去株洲的野马土菜研究所,让我对湘菜有了全新的认识。这家餐厅的环境朴实无华,但食材摆放精致,展现了餐厅对食材品质的自信。 我最印象深刻的是干辣椒炒浅熏腊肉,香气独特,辣度适中,是米饭杀手;还有天花板甲鱼,汤汁浓郁鲜美,也是下饭神器。 此外,我还参观了野马哥的辣椒园,了解了辣椒的种植和制作过程,这让我对湘菜的食材来源和烹饪技法有了更深入的了解。 总的来说,这次株洲之行让我对湘菜有了更深入的了解,也让我感受到了湖南当地饮食文化的独特魅力。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

Why is the 'Nine Dragon Dried Squid' considered a rare dish in modern times?

The 'Nine Dragon Dried Squid' requires extremely fresh squid that is processed immediately after being caught, then semi-dried for one to two days before being blanched. This method is labor-intensive and time-consuming, and most people now prioritize speed and convenience, making it rare. Only one place in Guangzhou still serves it.

What makes the 'Wild Horse Earth Cuisine Research Institute' unique compared to other restaurants?

The 'Wild Horse Earth Cuisine Research Institute' stands out for its focus on local, fresh ingredients and its innovative approach to traditional Hunan dishes. The chef, Wild Horse, combines high-quality ingredients with refined techniques, creating dishes that are both authentic and elevated. The restaurant also emphasizes seasonality, with a rotating menu based on what’s freshest.

What is the significance of tea oil in Hunan cuisine?

Tea oil, derived from the seeds of the tea plant, is a staple in Hunan cuisine. It is used for cooking, preserving ingredients, and even in dishes like mushroom oil. Its unique flavor and high smoke point make it ideal for the quick, high-heat cooking methods typical of Hunan cuisine.

Why is the 'Stir-Fried Pork with Green Peppers' at Wild Horse’s restaurant particularly noteworthy?

The 'Stir-Fried Pork with Green Peppers' at Wild Horse’s restaurant is unique because it uses a 'raw simmering' technique, where the dish is briefly simmered with a bit of broth after stir-frying. This method allows the flavors of the pork and green peppers to meld into the broth, creating a rich, savory sauce that pairs perfectly with rice.

What is the historical significance of 'Zu'an Cuisine' in Hunan?

Zu'an Cuisine refers to the high-end, traditional dishes served in the household of Tan Yankai, a prominent Hunan official in the early 20th century. These dishes, such as Zu'an Shark Fin and Zu'an Tofu, are known for their use of premium ingredients and complex cooking techniques, reflecting the refined tastes of the elite during that era.

Chapters
本段节目以阅读听众留言开篇,分享了听众因播客而产生的感动和对美食的感悟。其中,一位厨师朋友分享了关于“九龙吊片”的制作技巧,以及一位听众在迷茫时期因播客获得慰藉的故事。主播们也表达了做节目的初心和对听众的感谢。
  • 听众留言表达了播客的陪伴意义和美食带来的温暖
  • 厨师朋友分享了“九龙吊片”的制作技巧,强调食材的新鲜度
  • 听众分享了在迷茫时期,美食和播客带来的慰藉

Shownotes Transcript

临时加更祖传项目 —— 听众留言环节。

本期节目,主播们聊了聊十分钟就敲定的飞行美食目的地,并借此机会,简单梳理了一下湘菜的基本脉络和代表性菜式,以及湘菜这一百多年里的发展变化。

我们推荐大家通过小宇宙,苹果播客,荔枝等平台订阅节目,方便您在第一时间收听到我们的更新。

本期嘉宾:

饮食撰稿人  张秦瓯

餐厅:

土菜研究所 / 玉楼东 / 墨泉峰味

更多长假目的地播客推荐:

重庆)

成都)

香港)

潮州)

顺德)

越南)

本期参考资料:

Julian Baggini 《The Virtues of the Table》

蕾切尔·劳丹  《美食与文明》

扶霞  《革命美食》

范命辉  《湘菜谱》

俞润泉  《话说湖湘饮食》

梁小进 张好  《经典湖湘系列丛书 湘菜》

张秦瓯  《鱼籽酱的阶层跃升拯救了鲟鱼,但人类真的能「支配自然」吗?》)