190.2 - The Great Smoky Mountains and Appalachian Culture
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Hi, everybody. My name is Shauna, and this is the American English Podcast. My goal here is to teach you the English spoken in the United States. Through common expressions, pronunciation tips, and interesting cultural snippets or stories, I hope to keep this fun, useful, and interesting. Let's do it.

I feel so relaxed. Yesterday, I woke up at the crack of dawn and drove to the Great Smoky Mountains. I hiked, learned a lot of history, and was blown away by the magic of it all. Imagine misty mountains that look sort of blue, rich green pastures with elk and bear,

Old log cabins preserved from the 1800s and 1900s, fireflies at dusk, and epic waterfalls, always with those bluish peaks in the distance. It's what we'd call a sight for sore eyes. In other words, it's visually very impressive. But there's so much more to the Great Smoky Mountains than meets the eye.

They're the heart and birthplace of Appalachian culture. Where I was raised, it was common to say Appalachian. Many Americans do say Appalachian, but when you're here, just in the mountains, people call it Appalachia and the Appalachian Mountains.

They take a lot of pride in the name. And so just be sure if you're in the area, it's not Appalachia. Now, what is Appalachian culture? Today, we're going to cover it all. Everything from geography to traditions, folklore, and possibly the most interesting history lesson you'll hear in a long time.

Did someone say illegal behavior in race cars? Hmm. Be sure to stay tuned until the very end, and I'll give you some tips on planning your next trip. Having just gone, there's a lot I wish I had known beforehand, so I'm happy to share that all with you. Now, this is a language and culture lesson.

As we go along, I'll explain complicated or advanced vocabulary terms. If you'd like the bonus material that goes along with this audio so that you can read along, then be sure to sign up to Premium Content.

You'll have the downloadable text, a vocab list with definitions, a quiz, and much more. You'll find the link to Season 4 in the episode notes. Without further ado, let's get started. First and foremost, I think it's important to get oriented. Where is the Great Smoky Mountains National Park?

Let's call them the Smokies for short, because that is a long name. Now, the Smokies are part of the larger Appalachian mountain chain, which runs from Canada all the way down to Alabama. But this particular section, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is located right on the border between North Carolina and Tennessee.

So there are actually entrances from both states. If you were to look at a map, it's in the central eastern part of the United States. And the park is huge. It covers over 500,000 acres. Most of it is forest. They have some trees that are over 400 years old.

And as a visitor, there's an endless list of activities for you to do. You can go hiking on beautiful trails filled with wildflowers and then end up at a waterfall. Many waterfalls exist in the park. And to me, there's nothing better than taking your hiking shoes off and dipping your feet into the pools below the waterfall.

It's a great way to cool off. You can camp also at one of their campsites, like Cades Cove. You can go backcountry fishing if you have a fishing license, or even horseback riding in the valleys. Or shall I say coves? They like to use the word cove in the Smokies. Typically, when I use the word cove,

I normally think of a small bay that you'd find on a beach. It's sort of a protected area where you're not going to get hit by the waves. A cove is also a peaceful area between mountains. Typically, it's wide and flat. There's a big grassy meadow, probably. And so coves are perfect for spotting wildlife.

In Cades Cove, apart from white-tailed deer and bears, there are also groundhogs and turkeys. You might run into some raccoons and skunks even. Of course, you don't want to get sprayed by a skunk. That would ruin the trip for everyone around you. But yeah, there's a lot of wildlife.

In fact, in the rivers within the park, you'll find an abundance of trout, which is a type of fish, and salamanders. Funny enough, the park is actually considered the salamander capital of the world. It's home to about 30 species of salamanders. And if you're not familiar with what a salamander is, think oxalotls.

but maybe not quite as cool. They look like lizards. They're kind of cute. They're amphibians. Anyway, they're in the water and near the rivers. So you might be wondering, why are the Smokies called the Smokies? Is it because they have a lot of forest fires? Actually, no, it's because of the way they look.

If you've seen pictures of the Smoky Mountains, you've probably seen the blue-gray mist that floats over the mountains. It makes the mountains look blue at a distance. The floating mist isn't actually smoke. It's caused by vapor released by conifer trees. The vapor causes sunlight to scatter and

in other words, to move in different directions, and it creates that dreamy, smoky effect. If you can imagine a place where fairies or hobbits might live, it would certainly be in the Smokies.

The point is, that's where the park gets its name. In springtime, the mountains bloom with wildflowers, like rhododendrons. In fall, the leaves turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. As you may know, this is the most popular national park in the United States. In recent years, more than 13 million people have visited annually.

And the high season is typically between June and October. So having gone in late May, I can say it's not as crowded as in summer months, or as I can imagine summer months would be, but everything was very green and in bloom. So what's the story behind it? And why is it so popular? Let's take a step back in time.

The Appalachians started to take shape 200 to 300 million years ago when tectonic plates slid into each other. The landmass moved upwards, creating the mountains we know today. If you're a hiker, you probably know of the AT, the Appalachian Trail.

which is an epic 2,198-mile hike that takes you through 14 states, from Georgia to Maine. The Smokies are at the heart of that trail, and long before the Smoky Mountains became a national park, they were home to the Cherokee, one of the most prominent Native American tribes in the U.S.,

In 1819, the Cherokee signed a treaty and had to give their land in the Smokies up. Only 60 families were given the right to stay, and to this day, the Cherokee reside in the Koala Boundary right outside of the park entrance in North Carolina. We talked about this back in episode 173.3. It's a disgraceful part of U.S. history known as the Trail of Tears.

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European-American settlers, mostly Scottish-Irish immigrants. And they created the foundation of what we now know as Appalachian culture. They set up small villages. They had simple log cabins. And in the villages, there might be one house or a coop, four chickens to lay eggs, one house to store corn,

an apple house for, of course, apple storage and for creating cider, a meat house to keep the meat, and specifically a lot of pork. These foods were staples of the early Appalachian diet. Once again, chicken and eggs, corn for both hominy and whiskey or moonshine. We'll get to that in a bit.

Apple jam, applesauce, cider, pork. Yeah, these settlers grew just enough food to survive. Families who lived in the simple log cabins developed a culture that was independent. It was religious, so they had a church, and very much close-knit. Do you know what close-knit means?

When we say that a family is close-knit, K-N-I-T, it means they're close. They feel a tight connection with each other, maybe an emotional connection, and probably because of the proximity. In the Smokies, families gathered regularly, they worked together, and you can see actually one of the preserved villages in Cades Cove.

They had up to 132 families. So life in the mountains was isolated in the beginning. And we're talking about the 1820s. There were few roads and no electricity. Nights were spent playing music, reading, and telling stories by the fire. Over time, that also included a bit of moonshine and bluegrass.

Folklore, bluegrass music, and moonshine? Well, they are definitely three fundamental aspects of Appalachian culture. So let's start with the stories. Cherokee legends, pioneer ghost stories, and Appalachian tall tales have been passed down through the generations. Just for fun, I'd like you to close your eyes for a second.

Imagine you are sitting by a fire in the Great Smoky Mountains. Maybe you're in Cades Cove, that grassy area I mentioned before, where the bear and the white-tailed deer like to roam. Up above, the stars are shining brightly. And yes, just stick with me. One famous Cherokee legend is about Spearfinger.

Spearfinger was a terrifying witch with a finger made of stone, and it was very sharp. It could slice through trees, rocks, and even unlucky humans. And she was said to roam the forest disguised as an old woman, humming and whispering to lure children away from safety.

To lure means to tempt someone into a trap. So Spearfinger, according to the famous Cherokee legend, would try to lure children away from safety. It's also said that she roamed the mountains preying on unsuspecting hikers. So if you enjoy hiking and you're in the Smokies, keep your eye out for Spearfinger.

Another eerie creature of the Smokies is the Wampus Cat. The Wampus Cat is often described as a half-woman, half-panther creature who was cursed to roam the woods forever after spying on a sacred ceremony she wasn't supposed to see. Some versions say she brings bad luck.

Others say she's just misunderstood. According to the stories, if you hear a woman scream at night in the Smokies, it could be the wampus cat on the prowl. You might be in trouble.

As you can tell, I think these are great stories to retell. If you go camping out there, you can spook out some of your friends or relatives that are with you. You can mention the wampus cat, spearfinger, and last but not least, the legend of the lost spirits of Cade's Cove.

Now, according to folklore, some early settlers of the cove still roam the valleys after dark, especially near the old churches and cemeteries. Travelers have actually reported hearing ghostly singing or seeing flickering lights in the distance, and then they comment that nobody is there. So,

Interestingly, the Smokies are said to be full of haints, H-A-I-N-T-S, which is a southern word for restless spirits who haven't crossed over to the afterlife. You'll even see that some of the old cabins are painted with haint blue on the porch ceilings. Haint blue is sort of a bluish green.

a color that they believed warded off evil spirits. It's fascinating to me how I was unaware of this, but there are so many southern front porches that are painted this color. Anyway, folklore isn't just entertainment here. It's part of the soul of the Smokies, and nothing brings more soul than music.

Bluegrass music was born in these mountains. Now, by definition, bluegrass is a style of American roots music, and it has instruments like the banjo, fiddle, and guitar. Usually, bluegrass music is fast and energetic. ♪

Bill Monroe was known as the father of bluegrass, and he helped popularize the style in the 1940s. Today, you can still hear it all over eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina, where I live. And usually, bluegrass events are outside. They're really casual. You can bring a picnic.

listen to a banjo player shred on stage. To shred means to play incredibly well, and it's a very authentic experience that will make you feel like you've stepped into another era. Now, last but not least, this is the story that I've been eager to tell, and I alluded to in the very beginning when I mentioned illegal and race cars.

What could this be about? Hmm. If you wander deep into the Smoky Mountains, way past the touristy parts, you might hear whispers about the good old days. The days when homemade whiskey wasn't just a drink, it was a way of life. What do I mean? In the remote Smoky Mountains, farming families often struggled to make ends meet.

In other words, they struggled to make enough money to live. They struggled to make ends meet. Corn was abundant. There was a lot of it. But selling a few gallons of corn whiskey could earn far more than selling a whole cartload of corn on its own. During Prohibition, when alcohol was banned across the U.S.,

From 1920 to 1933, the demand for illegal liquor skyrocketed. In other words, it increased rapidly. It skyrocketed. People wanted illegal liquor, right? I mean, they probably would prefer it legal, but that wasn't available.

So with the thick forests and all of the hills, the Smokies were the perfect place to hide a still, which you needed to create the whiskey, and to set up business. If you had a strong corn crop and you weren't afraid to break the law, you could turn that grain into liquid gold. Liquid gold, yes, that corn whiskey became known as moonshine.

Men would make moonshine, also known as that corn whiskey, by the light of the shining moon, when the smoke of production was harder to spot. It was illegal. It was dangerous to do. So that's why they did it at nighttime. And the men who were creating the moonshine were known as moonshiners.

As I mentioned, it was dangerous. Revenuers, so government agents, were tasked with shutting down illegal distilleries, and they often raided hidden operations. Getting caught making moonshine could mean heavy fines, jail time, or even worse. That's why speed became a moonshiner's best friend. Speed. Here's where it gets fun.

To outrun the law and to deliver the moonshine, moonshiners, the men who made the corn whiskey, started modifying their cars. They souped up their engines, reinforced suspensions, and removed seats to lighten the load. Why?

all in order to carry hundreds of pounds of whiskey at top speed through the windy mountain roads. And yep, they were breaking the law. They were a bunch of daredevils. And just so you're familiar with the term to soup up, to soup up is slang, and it means to change something, typically a car, to make it faster and more powerful.

So they souped up their cars and outran law enforcement.

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Now, after Prohibition ended, a lot of those daredevil drivers still craved the speed, but no longer had the illegal booze to deliver. So what did they do? They started racing each other, first informally and then in organized competitions on dirt tracks across the South. The wild racing scene eventually led to the creation of NASCAR.

the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing, in 1948. So the next time you watch a NASCAR race, just remember, it all started with moonshine, during Prohibition, and a lot of daredevil drivers.

If anyone ever asks you about Appalachian culture, now you can tell them about the good old days, bluegrass music, folklore, and of course, those beautiful misty blue mountains. Oh, and of course, the moonshine. So at what point did the Great Smoky Mountains become a national park? It didn't happen overnight.

By the early 1900s, much of the forest in the Smoky Mountains was being destroyed by logging companies. Logging is the act of cutting down trees for wood, for lumber. You might use that to build houses, for any type of construction. Companies would clear large areas of forest

build railroads, and unfortunately pollute nearby streams. Now locals, the people of Appalachia, began to worry that the beauty of the land and their simple way of life was disappearing. In the 1920s, the idea of a national park was born. After all,

When a park is designated as a national park, it gets extra care in the form of park rangers who take care of nature and educate visitors. There are usually more paved roads, visitor centers, and in general, it's protected. So the land can't be developed by private companies and such. It's protected.

But creating the Great Smoky Mountains National Park wasn't easy. Unlike other popular parks in the U.S., like Yellowstone or Yosemite, which were on federal land when they were created, the Smokies were filled with private farms, churches, and towns.

In order to turn it into a park, the land had to be bought from thousands of settlers, many who were very proud of their life and where they were living. Families who had lived on the land for generations were forced to leave. Some sold willingly. Others were resistant. And so the U.S. government allowed them to stay under what they called a life lease, meaning they could live out the rest of their life in the park without

but then they wouldn't be able to pass their house and their land to their children. By 1934, the park was officially established, thanks to federal funding, donations from locals, and a $5 million donation from the Rockefeller family. Thank goodness for those Rockefellers. Today, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is

is not just a natural space to visit. It's a place where visitors can learn about the past. There are over 90 historic buildings in the park, including churches, barns, cabins, and grist mills, so mills that ground grain into flour using water power.

and these structures are preserved to show what mountain life looked like back then, which is pretty cool, if I do say so myself. I was able to make it to Mingus Mill, which was very peaceful. It wasn't up and running when I was there, but there's certainly a vibe. Anyway, the park is a place where nature, history, and culture come together.

And I believe it's a great combo. So let's pretend you are going to visit. Remember, close to 14 million people visit annually, more than any other park in the U.S. It's definitely worth being prepared when you go. The high season lasts from June to October, but you can also go during a shoulder season like I did.

I'll admit the weather in May was nice. The flowers were blooming. Everything was lush and green. It's just a matter of looking at your weather app and making sure it's not going to pour rain or, you know, have a snowstorm when you're up in those mountains. Now, I'd recommend planning on visiting the park over a two to three day period just because there's a lot to do.

I'll mention a few of the things you must do and then a few specific tips afterwards. Number one, I've mentioned already Cades Cove. So Cades Cove is a large, beautiful, and spacious meadow-like area with a lot of historical buildings.

It's where you're going to see what life was like back in the 1800s. And that area can be driven in a two to three hour loop. There's usually some traffic, especially between 10 and 3, according to the park ranger I spoke to. But what's cool is that on Wednesdays in the summertime, it's car free.

So you can rent bikes and ride through all of that on your own, maybe pass some of those wild animals. According to the official webpage on NPS, large numbers of white-tailed deer are frequently seen. There are sightings of black bear, coyote, groundhog, turkey, raccoon, skunk, and other animals.

Personally, I love the idea of camping there. There's a camp store, bathrooms, showers. There's an amphitheater. And plus, you can wake up early and be one of the first to the hiking trails. Maybe you can get one of the parking spots, which are limited. I'll get to that in a second. Once again, Cades Cove is one of the most popular areas.

And it's all surrounded by the beautiful mountains. Now, number two is Kuwohi, which used to be called Clingman's Dome. And that is the highest point in the park. You can drive there and then walk a steep half-mile trail to a sort of futuristic-looking observation tower. And there are panoramic views up there.

It gets very windy and cold up there, even in the summertime. Same with Newfound Gap. That's where FDR dedicated the national park in 1940. And from both Newfound Gap and Kauahi Dome, you have access to the Appalachian Trail, which is worth walking a few steps on. It's a popular bucket list item in the United States.

It's a really cool thing to say you've done. So I've walked the Appalachian Trail. It sounds epic. I won't mention that I was on it for only about 15 minutes. Moving on, number three. When you're there, you have to choose a waterfall to see. Laurel Falls, Rainbow Falls, and Grotto Falls are

are all popular. Laurel Falls was closed this time, but next time I think I would do that with my family and daughters. They don't hike much without complaining, and apparently it's a pretty easy hike with a lot of beautiful flowers. Grotto Falls is also possible. It's a moderate hike, and I believe it was only 2.6 miles. So next time you're

Our plan is to take a drive on the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail and then go to Grotto Falls, Laurel Falls, and of course, Cades Cove and Kuohi. So those are three things that are definitely possible to do with kids. And of course, I'll be sure to bring a lot of snacks and download offline maps because there is no service.

Fortunately, someone recommended that to me before I got there. And so while I was driving, I didn't run out. If I went by myself again, I'd do the Alum Cave Trail, which is the most popular in the park. Apparently, it's just breathtaking.

The only thing is, and this goes for all of the most popular hiking trails, there's not enough parking. And so you have to arrive really at the crack of dawn to snag a parking spot. On the official website, so on NPS, they suggest taking shuttles rather than driving.

So to avoid disappointment, I'd spend the night in Gatlinburg on the Tennessee side and then take a shuttle in the morning. Shuttles from Gatlinburg are easier to schedule and cheaper than going in the entrance from North Carolina. I confirmed that with the woman at the visitor's center and also through my research.

So yes, starting in Gatlinburg is a little bit crazy. It's a wild little town, but yeah, it seems like it makes the most sense. It's also where you can get moonshine tastings, if that's your cup of tea. One last thing, which is now officially on my bucket list, is to visit the only lodge in the park, Le Conte Lodge.

It's possibly one of the most unique accommodations I've seen in a while. The only access to it is by hiking, and the hike is between 5.5 and 8 miles depending on the trail. So it's not a short hike. It's a trek. And then once you get to the top, there's no electricity, just kerosene lights, and

And rather than showers, you're offered a bucket to take a sponge bath. At first, I was sort of confused, thinking, hmm, this is very rustic. What kind of lodge is this? But it really gives the vibe that you're going back in time. And the pictures make it look very cozy.

And there are some perks. Hot cooked meals. Every room has a little porch with rocking chairs and views. It's not a typical stay, but it's a traditional one, and I guarantee it will be memorable. The llamas they use.

actually carry up the food. So you might actually see a big line of llamas walking up in the morning and descending at night. So even though there are crowds during high season, you'll always find a place to walk in silence. You just might see some wildlife and imagine what life was like in the past. So go check out the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Let me know if you do on Instagram at American English Podcast. I would love to know your favorite part about it. Thanks for joining me today. Until next time, take care and keep learning. Bye. Thank you for listening to this episode of the American English Podcast. Remember, it's my goal here to not only help you improve your listening comprehension, but to show you how to speak like someone from the States.

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At Verizon, we're doing all that in the form of special military offers. That's why this month only, we're giving military and veteran families a $200 Verizon gift card and a phone on us with a select trade-in and a new line on select unlimited plans. Think of it as our way of flying a squadron of jets overhead while launching fireworks. Now that's what we call a celebration because we're proud to serve you. Visit your local Verizon store to learn more.

$200 Verizon gift card requires smartphone purchase $799.99 or more with new line on eligible plan. Gift card sent within eight weeks after receipt of claim. Phone offer requires $799.99 purchase with new smartphone line on unlimited ultimate or postpaid unlimited plus. Minimum plan $80 a month with auto pay plus taxes and fees for 36 months. Less $800 trade-in or promo credit applied over 36 months. 0% APR. Trade-in must be from Apple, Google, or Samsung. Trade-in and additional terms apply.