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cover of episode Episode #91 - Why Have Chefs Historically Been Men/History of Restaurants?

Episode #91 - Why Have Chefs Historically Been Men/History of Restaurants?

2024/8/20
logo of podcast History Is Sexy

History Is Sexy

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Janina和Eamonn探讨了历史上厨师行业为何主要由男性主导,以及餐厅概念的形成。他们指出,这与男性刻意将专业厨房和烹饪设计成排斥女性的空间有关,并将专业烹饪与家庭烹饪区分开来。他们认为,许多原本由女性主导的职业,一旦男性参与其中,薪资就会提高,女性反而会被排挤,烹饪行业就是一个典型的例子。 他们还分析了“回厨房去”等说法对女性的贬低作用,以及这种说法长期存在并被广泛使用的原因。他们认为,这种说法不仅是对女性的侮辱,也是一种转移话题、控制女性在公共场合行为的方式。 他们进一步探讨了西方餐厅文化和厨房文化的发展历程,指出法国文化在其中扮演了重要角色,但对非西方烹饪文化的讨论较少。他们解释了“厨师”和“厨师”的区别,厨师是厨房的管理者,而非实际烹饪者,真正的烹饪地位提升在于脱离实际烹饪工作。 他们指出,法国烹饪的出现,将烹饪定义为一种艺术形式,而非简单的喂饱人们,现代高级餐厅的烹饪体验更注重艺术性而非享受。他们还分析了法国大革命以及厨师行会的存在,是如何导致男性厨师的职业化和女性的排除。 在英国,厨师的职业路径也存在性别差异,男性通过正规培训成为厨师,而女性则通过家庭中的经验积累成为厨师,职业发展受到限制。全球贸易的开放和中产阶级的兴起,为失业的厨师提供了新的就业机会,也催生了餐厅文化的兴起。 他们还追溯了“餐厅”一词的起源,以及早期的餐厅文化以法式风格为主,以多人共餐为主,用餐时间较长,这与现代快节奏的文化形成对比。Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimaud de la Reynière发明了“美食家”的概念,标志着对饮食享受的重视。 18世纪后期到19世纪初期,法国烹饪被提升为一种艺术形式,而女性的烹饪则被贬低为本能行为。Antoine Carême标准化了法国烹饪,将烹饪提升为一种艺术,但这种标准化也排斥了女性。Auguste Escoffier改革了厨房运作模式,并建立了严格的等级制度,进一步排斥了女性参与高级烹饪领域。 Nouvelle Cuisine运动对传统法国烹饪进行了改革,但对女性的排斥依然存在。Ferran Adria和Noma等厨师代表了现代烹饪的极端形式,更加注重艺术性和体验,而远离了食物本身的意义。高级烹饪对女性的排斥根源于将烹饪视为女性活动,为了获得认可,男性厨师刻意将烹饪塑造成一种艺术形式,并排斥其他烹饪文化。现代高级餐厅的烹饪体验并非总是令人愉快的,食物应该以美味和享受为核心。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

Why have professional chefs historically been predominantly men?

Men deliberately designed professional kitchens to exclude women, creating a separate sphere for professional cooking that was distinct from home cooking. This shift often coincided with jobs becoming more lucrative and hostile to women, as seen in other fields like coding and social media.

How did the concept of the restaurant develop?

The concept of the restaurant originated in France during the 18th century, influenced by the French Revolution and the rise of the middle class. The term 'restaurant' initially referred to healing broths, but it evolved into a place where people could eat communal meals prepared by professional chefs.

What role did the French Revolution play in the development of restaurants?

The French Revolution led to the displacement of many chefs who had previously worked for the nobility. These chefs then began catering to the emerging middle class, contributing to the rise of restaurants as a social space for dining outside the home.

Why were women excluded from professional cooking roles?

Women were excluded from professional cooking roles because men deliberately created a system where cooking was framed as an artistic, intellectual, and masculine endeavor, separate from the nurturing, domestic role associated with women's cooking.

How did Antoine Carême contribute to the professionalization of cooking?

Antoine Carême standardized many aspects of French cuisine, including the creation of 'mother sauces' and the modern chef's uniform. He emphasized cooking as a scholarly, scientific, and artistic profession, further distancing it from the domestic role of women.

What impact did Auguste Escoffier have on restaurant culture?

Auguste Escoffier introduced the brigade system, which organized kitchens like military hierarchies, and popularized individual service à la russe. He also developed rigid rules for professional cooking, further institutionalizing the exclusion of women from high-level culinary roles.

Why did Nouvelle Cuisine emerge in the 1960s?

Nouvelle Cuisine emerged as a reaction against the heavy, traditional French cuisine, emphasizing innovation, lightness, and creativity. It also coincided with the rise of thinness as a sign of wealth and status, leading to smaller, more artistic dishes.

How has modern restaurant culture evolved to prioritize experience over eating?

Modern restaurant culture, influenced by chefs like Ferran Adria, has shifted towards creating intense, artistic experiences that often prioritize visual and sensory impact over the enjoyment of eating. This trend reflects a deliberate move away from the nurturing aspects of food.

Why is French cuisine often seen as superior to other cuisines?

French cuisine is often seen as superior due to its historical association with art, culture, and intellectualism. This perception was reinforced by the professionalization of cooking in France, which positioned French chefs as creators of high culture, while other cuisines were often dismissed as domestic or regional.

Chapters
This chapter explores the historical reasons behind the underrepresentation of women in professional kitchens, examining societal gender roles, the evolution of restaurant culture, and the deliberate exclusion of women from culinary education and professional organizations.
  • The professional kitchen was designed to exclude women.
  • The rise of the male chef as an artistic figure further marginalized women.
  • Gendered insults like "go back to the kitchen" perpetuate the idea of cooking as women's work.
  • The development of French haute cuisine emphasized art and technique, further excluding women.

Shownotes Transcript

Why have chefs historically been men, and how did the concept of the restaurant take shape?