Shaved heads, wrap-around Oakleys, neon tracksuits, Alpha Industries bombers and Nike trainers. This is the story of how hardcore changed contemporary fashion for decades to come.

In this episode, Mahoro Seward, i-D’s Senior Fashion Features Editor, speaks to Ari Versluis, the photographer behind Exactitudes, the emblematic image series that first typified the gabber look and brought it to the world, and a former gabber himself. Lis Rutten, an Amsterdam-based casting director and former model, discusses for the gabber look has influenced fashion’s masculine ideal, while Henrike Naumann, a German artist who has explored gabber culture extensively in their work, unpacks its enduring legacy, both in the arts and on the ground.

Host: Mahoro Seward

Scripting: Mahoro Seward, Amelia Phillips

Research: Eleanor Gribbin

Research Assistance: Alexia Marmara

Art Direction: Calum Glenday and Aleksandra Talacha

Producer: Amelia Phillips

Audio Producer: Robin Leeburn

Production: Podmasters

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Gabber: How Fashion Turned Hardcore 30:55 Share

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Gabber: How Fashion Turned Hardcore