Gelatin became popular in the 1970s due to its versatility and the creative use of savory ingredients like tuna and cottage cheese in jello salads. However, it fell out of fashion as these dishes were seen as outdated and strange by modern standards.
Gelatin is primarily made from animal products that are cooked down to create a gel substance. In the Victorian era, it was a luxury item for the wealthy, but now it is widely available in prepackaged powder form, like Knox gelatin.
Agar agar is a vegan gelatin alternative derived from seaweed. It works similarly to gelatin but requires different quantities and a bit more testing to get the right consistency.
The cookbook 'Jiggle!' modernizes traditional gelatin recipes by using fresh ingredients and flavors, and creating both sweet and savory dishes. For example, it includes a leek, potato, and salmon dish that uses gelatin as a binding agent to create a terrine-like structure.
Peter DiMario recommends using non-flavored oil in the mold to help the gelatin come out smoothly, and placing the mold in warm water to slightly melt the edges for easier removal. He also suggests using a copper mold for better heat and cold conductivity.
To achieve the perfect suspension, Peter DiMario lets the gelatin mixture thicken slightly in the fridge or freezer, then stirs in the ingredients. This prevents them from settling directly to the bottom and creates a floating effect.
A good gelatin shot, according to Peter DiMario, uses fresh ingredients, quality liquors, and is visually appealing. His watermelon margarita bites, for example, are sparkly, salty, and a hit at parties.
In the '70s, gelatin was very much in vogue. Gatherings often featured a colorful, molded jello salad that contained surprising ingredients from cottage cheese to tuna. Those dishes have since fallen out of favor, but a new cookbook by Peter DiMario and Judith Choate declares that gelatin is back. Jiggle! includes modernized recipes for sweet, savory and layered dishes, such as Grandma's Ambrosia and Watermelon Margarita Bites. In today's episode, DiMario talks with Here & Now's Deepa Fernandes about the origins of gelatin, how to achieve the perfect suspension, and the fun of updating gelatin dishes with fresh ingredients and flavors.To listen to Book of the Day sponsor-free and support NPR's book coverage, sign up for Book of the Day+ at plus.npr.org/bookofthedayLearn more about sponsor message choices: podcastchoices.com/adchoices)NPR Privacy Policy)