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cover of episode A US Clothing Brand On the Existential Threat From the Tariffs

A US Clothing Brand On the Existential Threat From the Tariffs

2025/5/9
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Odd Lots

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Sarah LaFleur
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Traci Alloway 和 Joe Weisenthal:关税对服装和纺织业造成冲击,因为中国、越南等国是主要纺织品出口国。小型服装企业比大型企业更容易受到关税的影响。美国曾经拥有蓬勃发展的纺织业,关税对该行业的冲击尤为显著。 Sarah LaFleur:关税对M.M.LaFleur的业务造成严重损害,增加了运营成本,并对未来的服装生产造成影响。关税实施后,M.M.LaFleur与工厂紧急沟通,试图将货物尽快运送,但港口混乱导致部分货物未能及时装船。关税导致M.M.LaFleur取消了50%的5月份服装系列,因为这些服装来自中国。部分产品销售窗口错失,推迟到下一年销售。M.M.LaFleur大部分生产在中国进行,因为中国的质量优异,但价格并不便宜。将生产转移回美国是不现实的,因为美国服装业衰退,无法满足M.M.LaFleur的生产需求,而且美国消费者也不愿意为服装支付更高的价格。M.M.LaFleur正在努力应对关税带来的价格上涨压力,但由于经济衰退的风险,不太可能直接将成本转嫁给消费者。M.M.LaFleur的中国工厂合作伙伴正在努力降低价格以应对关税,并寻求其他解决方案,例如尝试进入中国市场。服装行业存在“转厂洗标”现象,即在第三国更换标签后将产品运往美国,以规避关税。中国服装工厂正在将生产能力转移到其他亚洲国家,如越南和菲律宾,但熟练工人的短缺仍然是一个挑战。将服装生产转移回美国是不现实的,因为美国缺乏熟练的缝纫工人和相应的生产能力。中国是少数几个仍然生产丝绸的国家之一,M.M.LaFleur目前还没有找到替代的丝绸生产来源。关税的影响已经造成损害,即使关税取消,也难以弥补损失,因此M.M.LaFleur采取了保守的成本控制措施。将不确定性纳入业务规划非常困难,M.M.LaFleur采取了保守的预测和成本控制措施。数字营销成本大幅上涨,给M.M.LaFleur的营销策略带来了挑战。许多小型企业面临倒闭风险,消费者和零售商可能没有意识到这种严峻形势。大型服装公司更容易应对关税带来的冲击,而小型企业则面临更大的生存压力。关税需要在货物到达美国时立即支付,这给企业带来了巨大的现金流问题。在一些非中国国家,如越南、菲律宾和柬埔寨,缺乏足够的服装生产能力和专业技能来满足高质量服装的需求。将服装生产转移回美国面临巨大挑战,短期内难以实现。

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America's textile industry has famously declined over the years, with a bunch of production moving to lower-cost places like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh. Now, with the Trump administration imposing heavy tariffs on exports from these countries, the US clothing industry is facing another big shock. In this episode we speak with Sarah LaFleur, founder and CEO of M.M.LaFleur, which makes high-quality work clothing for women (Tracy is a big fan). She walks us through what the past month has actually been like for a smaller clothing business trying to understand and deal with the tariffs. We talk about the conversations she's been having with mills and factories in China, how the tariffs are already impacting future seasons of clothing, the scramble to secure space on ships before the tariffs hit, and how businesses actually pay the new taxes.Read more: A New ‘China Shock’ Is Destroying Jobs Around the World)One Ship, $417 Million in New Tariffs: The Cost of Trump’s Trade War)Only Bloomberg.com subscribers can get the Odd Lots newsletter in their inbox — now delivered every weekday — plus unlimited access to the site and app. Subscribe at bloomberg.com/subscriptions/oddlots)

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